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Comprehensive Cosmetic Industry Ingredient Guide

THIS IS A UNIVERSAL REFERENCE GUIDE FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES

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Ingredient
Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Summary

Polyhydroxystearic Acid is a versatile cosmetic ingredient that is widely used in the formulation of sunscreens, makeup, and skincare products. It is a synthetic ester of stearic acid and polyhydroxy compounds, which imparts a range of desirable properties to cosmetic formulations. Polyhydroxystearic Acid acts as a stabilizer, emulsifier, and thickener, providing excellent texture and spreadability to products. It also offers broad-spectrum UV protection, making it an ideal ingredient for sunscreens. Additionally, Polyhydroxystearic Acid is non-irritating and non-sensitizing, making it suitable for use in sensitive skin formulations. Overall, Polyhydroxystearic Acid is a valuable ingredient in the cosmetic industry, providing multiple benefits to a wide range of products.

INCI Name and Common References

INCI Name: Polyhydroxystearic Acid Common Terms: PHSA Nicknames: None

Function

Polyhydroxystearic Acid is a key ingredient in cosmetic formulation as it acts as an emulsifier and stabilizer. It helps to blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating a smooth and consistent texture in the final product. Additionally, it also helps to improve the spreadability and adherence of the product on the skin, making it easier to apply and ensuring that it stays in place for longer periods of time. Polyhydroxystearic Acid is commonly used in sunscreens, foundations, and other skincare products to enhance their performance and overall effectiveness.

Science

Polyhydroxystearic acid is a molecule with a long hydrocarbon chain and multiple hydroxyl groups attached to it. These hydroxyl groups make the molecule polar and able to interact with water molecules. When applied to the skin, polyhydroxystearic acid forms a thin film that spreads evenly and provides a barrier against UV radiation. The polar nature of the molecule also allows it to bind to other polar molecules, such as pigments, and disperse them evenly in a formulation. Overall, the physical properties of polyhydroxystearic acid make it an effective ingredient in sunscreens and other cosmetic products that require even dispersion and UV protection.

Benefits

1. Acts as a natural emulsifier, helping to blend oil and water-based ingredients in skincare products. 2. Provides a smooth and silky texture to skincare products. 3. Helps to improve the spreadability and absorption of skincare products. 4. Acts as a stabilizer, helping to prevent the separation of ingredients in skincare products. 5. Offers a protective barrier on the skin, helping to prevent moisture loss and improve hydration. 6. Helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. 7. Has anti-inflammatory properties, making it beneficial for those with sensitive or acne-prone skin. 8. Helps to improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin.

Negatives

Polyhydroxystearic acid is a commonly used ingredient in cosmetics and personal care products as an emulsifier and stabilizer. While it is generally considered safe for use, there are some potential side effects, sensitivities, and interactions that should be taken into consideration. One possible side effect of polyhydroxystearic acid is skin irritation. This can occur in individuals who are sensitive to the ingredient or who have pre-existing skin conditions. Symptoms of skin irritation may include redness, itching, and swelling. Another potential sensitivity to polyhydroxystearic acid is eye irritation. If the ingredient comes into contact with the eyes, it can cause redness, burning, and tearing. It is important to avoid getting the ingredient in the eyes and to rinse thoroughly with water if contact occurs. Polyhydroxystearic acid may also interact with other ingredients in cosmetic formulations. For example, it may not be compatible with certain types of preservatives or surfactants, which can affect the stability and efficacy of the product. It is important to carefully consider the compatibility of all ingredients when formulating products containing polyhydroxystearic acid. Overall, polyhydroxystearic acid is a safe and effective ingredient when used properly. However, individuals with sensitive skin or eyes should exercise caution when using products containing this ingredient, and formulators should carefully consider the compatibility of all ingredients in their formulations.

Source

Polyhydroxystearic Acid is a synthetic ingredient that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emulsifier and stabilizer. It is derived from stearic acid, which is a naturally occurring fatty acid found in animal and vegetable fats and oils. The processing pathway of Polyhydroxystearic Acid involves the reaction of stearic acid with a polyol, such as glycerin or sorbitol, to form a polyol ester of stearic acid. This ester is then further reacted with ethylene oxide to produce a polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid. Finally, the polyethylene glycol ester is reacted with hydroxy stearic acid to produce Polyhydroxystearic Acid. Overall, the processing pathway of Polyhydroxystearic Acid involves several chemical reactions and steps, but it is considered safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products.

Safety

Polyhydroxystearic Acid has a relatively low safety rating score according to the EWG Skin Deep database. It has been rated as a 1-2 on a scale of 1-10, with 1 being the safest and 10 being the most hazardous. This indicates that it is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products. However, it is important to note that the safety of this ingredient may vary depending on the specific product and concentration used. Other sources such as the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel have also evaluated the safety of Polyhydroxystearic Acid and have concluded that it is safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 10%. Overall, while Polyhydroxystearic Acid may not be completely risk-free, it is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products.

Sustainability

Polyhydroxystearic Acid is a synthetic ingredient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emulsifier and stabilizer. While it is not derived from natural sources, it is considered to have a low environmental impact as it is biodegradable and does not accumulate in the environment. In terms of ethical sourcing practices, there are no known concerns as Polyhydroxystearic Acid is a synthetic ingredient that is manufactured in a laboratory. However, it is important to note that the production of synthetic ingredients can have environmental impacts, such as the use of energy and resources in the manufacturing process. Overall, Polyhydroxystearic Acid is considered to be a safe and environmentally friendly ingredient for use in cosmetics and personal care products. As with all ingredients, it is important for manufacturers to ensure that they are sourcing and producing it in an ethical and sustainable manner.

Conclusion

In conclusion, Polyhydroxystearic Acid is a versatile ingredient that functions as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and thickener in various cosmetic and personal care products. Its scientific properties make it an effective ingredient for improving the texture and consistency of products. The benefits of Polyhydroxystearic Acid include its ability to provide a smooth and even application, reduce greasiness, and enhance the overall performance of products. However, some negatives include its potential to cause skin irritation and its limited availability in natural sources. Polyhydroxystearic Acid is considered safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products, but its sustainability is still a concern due to its synthetic production process. Overall, Polyhydroxystearic Acid is a valuable ingredient that can improve the quality and performance of cosmetic and personal care products, but its sustainability and potential negative effects should be considered.

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